Chief among my reasons to visit Montreal was to visit our son Evan, who is finishing up his last semester at McGill University, where he’s studying English literature and history. My friend Janet, whose son is in his second year at McGill, was my co-conspirator. We agreed on an early November visit: cold enough to remind us where we were, but a city not yet buried in snow.
We got some misinformation from a resident that the hotel we’d stayed in before had been torn down. (Le Meridian Versailles is, in fact, still standing.‎) We like the neighborhood — walking distance to McGill campus, museums, shops — so we booked rooms across the street, at the Chateau Versailles, also a Le Meridian property.
What a treat! The Chateau is two old mansions combined. The rooms are large and ornate, with working fireplaces. There’s no elevator; bellboys are helpful. Breakfast is included and served in a comfortably elegant room just off the lobby.
‎ Our first night in town we were treated by friends to a nighttime tour of the quartier des spectacles: outdoor photograph exhibits and projected images on buildings. Through January 4. From there we walked a short distance to the city’s Chinatown, where we had a delicious meal at Orange Rouge. It’s a lively, hip place, and you’ll need a reservation. They serve flavorful non-greasy Asian food, meats and vegetables nicely paired. (Thank you Greita and Stephanie.)
In the morning we got ourselves to the Musee des Beaux-Arts for two shows. One was the poster work of Andy Warhol, small but rich, which runs through March 15. The other is vast: German and French expressionism from 1900 to 1914, with works by Matisse, Kandinsky and others I’d not seen before. Through January 25.
Janet was looking to buy fashionable winter boots and a coat; friends suggested La Maison Ogilvy. To me it was like department stores in Paris: busy but dignified, with professional sales people. We found luxurious cold weather goods: hats and coats, fur-lined loafers, stylish all-weather La Canadienne boots.
For a celebratory dinner (my McGill graduate!) we snagged a table for eight at Hotel Herman. Exquisite food, reasonable prices, excellent service, unfussy decor. (Thanks for the recommendation, Sara.)
Afterwards, we walked a block or two to Fairmount Bagels, open 24 hours, where bagels are hand rolled and baked in a wood-fired oven. They’re divine. Not chewy like New York bagels: thinner.
In the morning, we walked back to the same Mile End neighborhood for breakfast, at Boulangerie Hof Kelsten. Industrial chic, with one long table and stools. French toast, an Israeli egg dish, and my favorite: gravlax on rye bread.
Mmm… A perfect weekend. If you’ve never been to Montreal: allez-y!